Those poor unfortunates who have become blog junkies will have had a disappointing week since I have been a bit remiss in my posting. The fact is, we have had little time for it. For a number of reasons, we had to accelerate our schedule to get to Largs in one week rather than two as planned.
Pressures of work had already meant that Georgie and Allan would have to leave us at Corpach, leaving me, Sue and Amy to manage the Crinan Canal. Two things conspired to make that more than a little challenging. First, Amy fell getting off the boat at Laggan, aggravating an existing bad knee injury and putting her out of commission in terms of operating fifteen, 200-year-old manually operated locks. We might have gotten by had the Scottish Canals people not withdrawn their assisted passage scheme this year (to howls of protest and anguish from folks who now simply won’t be able to manage it).
Georgie and Allan therefore kindly offered to stay on for a couple of extra days and I re-planned our passages to do it in the time available. Sadly, we have not been able to spend as much time enjoying the Western Isles as originally intended, but at least we are now here in Largs, safe and sound, and ready for some day sails around the area after a couple of days rest and refettling.
All that said, the trip down from Inverness has been a scenic delight – well worth the effort and – as the pictures show – a lot of fun.
14 July – Seaport to Dochgarroch via Dores Bay
Dores Bay is at the head of Loch Ness and certainly not en-route to Dochgarroch! The intention had been to motor to Dores down the canal, moor up for the night, possibly visit the Dores Inn using the tender and enjoy a nice dinner at anchor. The forecast of 5 to 10 knots didn’t take account of Nessie, who blew up a fearsome 22 knots by the end of dinner with the promise of more to come. So, we upped and ran back for the canal and spent a peaceful night alongside with the wind still howling F5 through the rigging. En route, we performed a fender overboard drill – the fender was abandoned to its fate after the third attempt when we were closing with a lee shore in 23 knots of wind!
15 July – Dochgarroch to Fort Augustus via Loch Ness
After the previous day’s experience, we kept a sharp lookout for Nessie and Allan bravely prevented her from getting hold of the bow….
We lunched at anchor off Urquhart Castle (much, much less wind from Nessie today) and could hear the strains of the Pipes over the water:
Fort Augustus was pleasantly touristy in beautiful evening sunlight.
We ate at The Moorings; plain and simple and probably the best fish and chips in Scotland.
16 July – Fort Augustus to Laggan
The locks out of Fort Augustus was our first experience of a serious flight…
Laggan Locks were a pretty stop for the night, though Amy’s mishap had us all a bit concerned and Plan B was therefore hatched.
17 July – Laggan Locks to Neptune’s Staircase
Outstanding views of Ben Nevis closed our last complete day on the Canal..
18 July – Neptune’s Staircase/Corpach to Oban
A long day began with the descent of the 8 locks in Neptune’s Staircase in the company of an old tug boat – Samson- the engine of which was on its last legs and producing billows of acrid smoke.
Even so, the locks are a spectacle and a fitting finale to our exit from the canal at Corpach.
On, then, down Loch Linnhe, past Fort William and the Corran Narrows..
..towards Oban. Where the forecast “F5 to 7 later..” arrived a bit early. We enjoyed the technical challenge of getting into the marina on Kerrera and then tied Shimoni on with lots of big ropes and plenty of fenders. We then anaesthetised ourselves against a very noisy and lumpy night with some absolutely excellent seafood at The Waypoint.
19 July – Oban to Crinan Lock 9
The day began well enough. The previous night’s slapping and banging on the hull had subsided enough to allow us a bit of sleep and we were off at 0900 with a favourable tide to tackle Fladda….
and the Sound of Luing, avoiding the infamous Corryvreckan, to enter the Crinan Canal.
All went well until Crinan, where the Lock Keepers studiously ignored their radios, didn’t communicate very well, finally got us into the sea lock and then promptly went off for their lunch. The first two locks were operated by the keepers, after which we had to do it ourselves. It was quite physical and we were extremely lucky to be in the company of JOCHR, with whose crew we worked for the next two days, tackling the locks together.
My last log entry for the day reads: “Very, very wet. Very, very midgy. Very, very……”
20 July – Crinan to Largs
There is no doubt that, once the rain stops, Crinan justifiably earns its soubriquet of “Scotland’s prettiest short cut…”
But the locks are jolly hard work, even for two boats with an adequate complement of fit crew. Scottish Canals really must re-think the withdrawal of the Assisted Passage scheme. I’d consider it good value to pay three figures for such help. And I fear that without such help, many older or more infirm cruisers will simply miss the whole experience.
We had an uneventful and scenically delightful cruise from Ardrishaig down to Largs where, somewhat earlier than intended, Leg 5 came to an end with a bottle of Moet and an excellent chilli. Thanks again to Georgie and Allan for playing extra time and sorry about the horrendous return journey to London. But that’s another story…..!
23 July – Day Sail to Glencallum Bay (Bute)
A lovely day – and all the make and mend done for the moment. So we set off for a day sail in glorious sunshine and fickle winds for Glencallum Bay at the southern tip of the Isle of Bute, some 7 miles or so from Largs.
Amy did splendid work on anchor duty, and we had a pleasant couple of hours lunching lazily in the sunshine and reading the papers.
On the way back, we stuck our nose into the harbour at Millport on Great Cumbrae Island. We were rewarded by the sight of many a seal basking in the sunshine. All we need to do now is spot the dolphins. Perhaps tomorrow..
24 July – Day Sail to the East Kyle of Bute and the Burnt Islands
Another day of Mediterranean sunshine so off we set for a picturesque cruise up the East Kyle. Bright and sunny though it was, there was a pretty healthy NE F5 bashing its way down the Clyde – right on the nose as usual. We were treated to the sight of this tug setting of its hydrants – presumably celebrating news of Scotland’s first Gold Medals of the Games.
A shift once we were in the Kyle allowed us to do some sailing; well more like a controlled drift, really, since the winds then went very light. The scenery was spectacular and we anchored at the Burnt Islands (we have been unable to fathom who burnt them, when or why) for a laze and lunch.
Still no dolphins, but a friendly seal eyed us from a nearby rock.
Coming back was proving to be a similarly pleasant controlled drift until the skipper, concentrating far too much on sailing and not enough on depth, managed to put us aground. He really should have been more careful when passing close by a place called “Stuck”
And this really is where we got stuck. The gods of sailing clearly have sense of humour. Fortunately, the three cardinal rules of going aground were obeyed:
- Do it near Low Water
- Do it on sand
- Do it slowly
So, having done some sums, I reassured the crew that we would simply need to wait as some of the water went away for a while, resulting in a bit of tilt, and then when we came back upright, off we would go. The crew greeted this with what might be described as scathing scepticism – which deepened somewhat as the aforementioned tilt appeared. But, a couple of hours later – sweet as a nut – we floated back off.
Crew nerves were later treated with an ancient and infallible medication; pina colada and sausages and mash. Never fails.
26 July – Great Cumbrae and Back….
….which is about 6 miles. All expertly steered by Amy.
It isn’t so sunny up here anymore. We went out this morning hoping for a bit of a sail before the weather, as forecast, turned all “dreich” again. However, there was absolutely no wind and the water was as flat as a skating rink. And then it rained. And rained.
Given the forecast for tomorrow, now focussing on navigation for next week.
Out to dinner to the famous Nardini’s tonight!
Afternote: Which was excellent. Especially the ice creams!
Sounds and looks like a fantastic trip – so different from the North Sea, a different world in fact. And shame about having to speed by the Western Isles. You could have popped into Loch Ardfern and sent our love to True Brew who’s on a mooring there.
And fender overboard!! Were there no lots as to who was going to strip off and swim for it? No? Oh.
Good to know that you’re still following us. We have been able to make up for some of what we’ve missed with a couple of day sails; Largs makes a good base. But much will have to go on the list for a later visit. On the fender, it certainly wasn’t swimming weather; I’d have had to throw someone in.
So far, we’re still on schedule with some interesting stuff to come. And if you happen to have time in your diaries for another go, I only have one crew aboard at present all the way from Cardiff to Eastbourne.
As ever,
Carl
Just to say that, whilst not quite having reached “blog junky” status, I am enjoying following the boat’s progress. I hope that Amy is now back to full “FE” status and that all of your other nautical accessories understand that the quiet life lies with the boat rather than “fending for themselves”.
Really looking forward to “my turn”, which is now not long now,
Best wishes to all crew and supporters,
Mike
(From sunny Camberley rather than Trinidad or anywhere more exotic)
Thank you kindly. Amy is now much better. Weather has turned back to being Scottish again; currently raining stair rods so Sue and Amy are watching the sort of film that comes in a pink DVD case and I’m doing some advance navigation.
See you in Wales!
As ever,
Carl